Wet-Plate vs Dry-Plate Tintypes & Ambrotypes

8x10 Large Format CameraOne of the most interesting and compelling reasons why I choose historic and analog chemical-based processes for my artwork is because of the flexibility, challenge and the element of “magic” is always there.  More importantly it is how “I see” and it just feels right to me.  I’m in the process of writing a new series of articles on historic dry-plate processes that range from tintypes, also known as ferrotypes, ambrotypes which is the same process as tinypes but on glass and also silver-gelatin dry-plates which act and behave like modern film (negative) versus being a reversal (positive) process like the tintypes, ambrotypes and wet-plate collodion.

The tintypes (metal) and ambrotypes (glass) use a special reversal developer that requires a black background on the respective medium.  In the case of the tintypes I use black paint as the sublayer, binding agent for the emulsion as well as the background.  For the ambrotypes on glass I use a gelatin binding agent and then put a piece of black material behind the glass plate to make the image appear visible.  There is nothing like an ambrotype mounted in a shadow box or a tintype mounted in a hand-made leather frame or a wooden frame made from reclaimed barnwood.

In both cases a silver-based liquid emulsion is used (e.g., liquid light, AG-Plus, Black Magic) as the sensitizing agent for exposure.  If you are really crazy you can make your own emulsion too.  This is one reason why the argument of film and if it will be around or not doesn’t matter to me.  I mix and hand coat my own negatives on paper, glass, and various metals so while I do enjoy shooting Tri-X or T-Max from time to time it really doesn’t impact much of my artwork.

One can expose the image in a large format camera just as we do with modern sheet film or you can take a positive slide and either project in on the sensitized plate or make a contact print.  You can also use a pinhole camera as well completely bypassing all modern advances with any type of lens, bellows, or movements associated with large format cameras.  I personally use vintage soft focus lenses most of the time, but use pinhole from time to time for great results.  Then by using the special reversal developer the image appears on the medium and normal hardened fixer is used to fix the image and make it permanent.

The interesting twist is that you have the option of using the same liquid emulsion as described above, but using it as a negative versus a reversal (positive).  You can either sub the glass plate and expose it in your large format camera or you can coat a plate, glass or metal, and then either contact print it with a negative or use your traditional darkroom enlarger and then develop with your standard darkroom developer (e.g., Dektol) and fix as you would traditional silver gelatin paper.  All of these processes produce slightly different looks and a vast array of artistic choices that can be used and combined for an endless set of options.  These processes are quirky, frustrating at times and very slow.  In some cases the time between steps is a minimum of 24 hours.

For example, when I prepare my tintypes I have to clean, scuff and lay down the oil based paint layer and then let dry for a minimum of 24 hrs.  Then when I head to the darkroom and lay down the emulsion I have to let the plates age for at least 24 hrs in total darkness.  I typically mix my developer the day before exposure because it needs to age a minimum of 24 hrs as well before use.  As you can see, you have several days tied up in making a single exposure and I haven’t even discussed how to determine your ISO/ASA yet.

In an interest to get the ball rolling I have included a snippet from Robert Leggat’s, A History of Photography book.  If you haven’t read this book, I would highly recommend it.  I will be detailing all of these processes in the next set of articles and companion videos.

What’s the difference between wet-plate (collodion) and dry-plate tintypes?

“The development of the Collodion process marked a watershed in the development of photography. However, this wet-plate process had limitations, one being that it was necessary to keep the collodion moist. For a number of years several attempts were made to discover ways of keeping the collodion moist for long periods. The materials tried included unusual ones like licorice, beer and raspberry syrup! Some success was achieved by using a mixture of bromide in collodion. The ideal binder would be one which enabled the plates to be used only when dry. It was not until 1871 that the next breakthrough was achieved by Dr Richard Leach Maddox, when he began using gelatin. In fact, as far back as 1850 Robert Bingham had suggested the use of gelatin, but this idea had not been taken up at the time, presumably because of the announcement of the collodion process the following year.

“Gelatin is a protein obtained from animals, which is transparent and odorless, and used in a number of food processes. The first account of its use in photography is in the British Journal of Photography for 8 September 1871, when Maddox suggested that the sensitizing chemicals could be coated on to a glass plate in a gelatin rather than a collodion emulsion. Maddox’s process, though revolutionary, was far slower than collodion. Several manufacturers experimented with it, the most successful being Charles Bennett, who in 1878 announced a new gelatin dry plate process. This was a major breakthrough, particularly since Bennett’s process also considerably enhanced the sensitivity of the emulsion, reducing the exposure time to one tenth of that required for the collodion one.

“The dry process relieved photographers of the need to carry about their own darkroom and chemicals; exposure could now be made on location, development being left until much later; it also let to a greater degree of standardization, and a more scientific approach to photography; the science of sensitomertry was introduced at around this period, and exposure calculators now began to appear. By the end of that decade the dry plate had superseded the wet plate entirely.”

Tim

According to Flickr here are my most interesting photos.

Be sure to leave your comments or suggestions at the bottom of this article. If you like my articles be sure to use the “Like” or “Share” buttons located at the bottom of each article so we can get more feedback from other photographers.

Post your traditional darkroom prints to my new Flickr group dedicated to analog photographs in a digital world.

When viewing my photos on my website or anywhere on the Internet, be sure to check my monitor calibration page to ensure you have the best viewing experience.

To view my portfolio visit my Black and White Fine Art website.

You can follow me on Twitter

Tim Layton
Tim Layton Photography

© Tim Layton – All Rights Reserved – 2012. You may not republish or use any information or media of any format, in part or in whole, without my written permission. For permission and more information you can contact Tim Layton on the web at blog.blackandwhitefineart.net or via email at tim@blackandwhitefineart.net

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5/6/12 – Update on Work

© Tim Layton Sr.I wanted to let my readers know that I am working diligently on a number of projects at the moment that is consuming most of my time.  I am in the process of writing a new series of articles focusing on making artwork with your hands.  I have been traveling extensively as evidenced by the updates in my gallery.

I am working on creating a series of unique pieces of artwork that date back to the mid 19th century that involve processes such as ferrotypes, ambrotypes, platinum/palladium and many others.  I plan on making a number of videos on these topics to support the articles because I continue to receive a lot of requests for them.  If you have an interest in vintage equipment, soft focus lenses and historic processes you may want to follow my vintage photography blog at http://www.vintagelargeformat.com.

Stay tuned and I look forward to receiving your feedback, thoughts and ideas.

Tim

According to Flickr here are my most interesting photos.

Be sure to email me your comments or suggestions. If you like my articles be sure to use the “Like” or “Share” buttons located at the bottom of each article so we can get more feedback from other photographers.

Post your traditional darkroom prints to my new Flickr group dedicated to analog photographs in a digital world.

When viewing my photos on my website or anywhere on the Internet, be sure to check my monitor calibration page to ensure you have the best viewing experience.

To view my portfolio visit my Black and White Fine Art website.

You can follow me on Twitter

Tim Layton
Tim Layton Photography

© Tim Layton Sr. – All Rights Reserved – 2012. You may not republish or use any information or media of any format, in part or in whole, without my written permission. For permission and more information you can contact Tim Layton on the web at blog.blackandwhitefineart.net or via email at tim@blackandwhitefineart.net

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Posted in Alternative Processes, Black & White, Film, Large Format, Medium Format, Photography | Tagged , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

The Largest Camera in the World!

You might be thinking the article title is something that dates back to the beginnings of photography.  If you think so, you would be wrong.  There is a very exciting new project that is happening today that has lead to the production of the worlds largest camera in history and it’s not a spoof, gimmick or joke.  It is the real deal.  Dennis Manarchy has pulled together a project called “Vanishing Cultures” where he has built a 35 foot large format camera that uses a piece of film that is 6 feet.  Dennis and his team is traveling 2o,000 miles around the country capturing portraits from the cultures that are vanishing right before our eyes.

I only wish I would have thought about this idea first and it was me doing it.  I wish Dennis well and fully support the project.

Video Overview:

To follow along on the progress of the project visit the Facebook page for the latest information.

The Phone/Camera that Dennis was using in the video above is a new 41MP camera phone with Zeiss optics! Yes, I said a 41MP camera phone with Carl Zeiss optics. Apple, what are your plans for the iPhone 5?  Europe always gets the good stuff first!

Nokia 808 Overview:

Tim

According to Flickr here are my most interesting photos.

Be sure to leave your comments or suggestions at the bottom of this article. If you like my articles be sure to use the “Like” or “Share” buttons located at the bottom of each article so we can get more feedback from other photographers.

Post your traditional darkroom prints to my new Flickr group dedicated to analog photographs in a digital world.

When viewing my photos on my website or anywhere on the Internet, be sure to check my monitor calibration page to ensure you have the best viewing experience.

To view my portfolio visit my Black and White Fine Art website.

You can follow me on Twitter

Tim Layton
Tim Layton Photography

© Tim Layton – All Rights Reserved – 2012. You may not republish or use any information or media of any format, in part or in whole, without my written permission. For permission and more information you can contact Tim Layton on the web at blog.blackandwhitefineart.net or via email at tim@blackandwhitefineart.net

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Using Northern Light in Your Photography

As far back as I am aware, some of histories greatest artists (painters, photographers) have known about and used north light in their work.  I am in the process of looking for a new studio and north facing windows is my number one priority besides the other obvious things that you would want for any studio. First, I will discuss what north light is and how it compares to other types of light and then provide some tips on how to simulate north light in the studio.

North light is commonly known as indirect light or reflected light.  One of the reasons why you want this type of light in your studio is because it is consistent and predictable throughout the day in addition to being a high quality source of light that can produce dramatic and beautiful results.  With north light you don’t have to worry about the light shifting or moving at different angles over the course of the day. Northern light is in contrast to direct sunlight which is typically harsh and can create very unflattering dimensions and elements to your work.  However, there are times when it makes sense to use direct sunlight, so it is not always a bad thing.

What can you do if you don’t have north light?

All is not lost as there are some things you can do to get similar effects, just not exactly the same and for the same duration that you would enjoy with true northern light. I love using natural light in my work and it is always my first choice if possible.

I use drafting vellum paper, also known as engineering tracing paper, that comes on a roll in widths ranging from 24″ to 72″.  This paper is used by architects.  I typically use 42″ to 48″ rolls because they fit nicely on a boom arm on my light stands.  Light that radiates through the vellum is just like northern light and gently wraps around your subject and produces that magical look and feel to your work.  You can move your continuous light source closer or move farther away to create the type of light you need for your project.

I just went to my local art store and they had some in stock, but you may need to check with an engineering supply store or any of the major retailers online carry it.  Another option is to use a professional product from Rosco called Opal Tough Frost.  I use this for large windows because it is more robust and also heat resistant.  You can get it from B&H online. If you don’t have these papers and need a quick solution for an immediate project then try using a frosted shower curtain for strong light or a thin plastic paint cover that you can pick up at your local hardware store for less than a couple of dollars.  I’ve used all of the above in a pinch.  In fact, I keep a few rolls of the plastic paint covers in my gear bag for everything from an emergency light diffuser to covering up equipment in the event of sudden rain.

Simulating North Light in the Studio

While it is nearly impossible to imitate the real thing, it is possible to get close and make good use of your studio and a few simple objects if needed.  The way that I imitate north light in the studio is with day light colored flood lights available from your local hardware store, vellum paper or Rosco opal frost paper and some white foam art board.  I picked up a few silver light reflectors from my hardware store, then kind that have a clamp on one end and a silver reflector.  These work perfectly for clamping to light stands and directing light.  I use different wattage bulbs to create my highlights and shadows and use the white foam art board to reflect and bounce light as needed.  In other words, I never directly apply my lights on my subjects, it is all diffused, controlled and sculpted to fit the needs of my subject and project.  For a very low budget you can have a complete lighting studio capable of producing top notch professional work.  For product and commercial work it is typically very important to manage reflections in your work.  This studio approach described above will help you produce very high quality product and still life work.

One of my best selling prints was made using the north light simulation techniques that I described in the paragraph above.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

My Soft Focus Photo Set Using Simulated Northern Light

Tim

According to Flickr here are my most interesting photos.

Be sure to leave your comments or suggestions at the bottom of this article. If you like my articles be sure to use the “Like” or “Share” buttons located at the bottom of each article so we can get more feedback from other photographers.

Post your traditional darkroom prints to my new Flickr group dedicated to analog photographs in a digital world.

When viewing my photos on my website or anywhere on the Internet, be sure to check my monitor calibration page to ensure you have the best viewing experience.

To view my portfolio visit my Black and White Fine Art website.

You can follow me on Twitter

Tim Layton
Tim Layton Photography

© Tim Layton – All Rights Reserved – 2012. You may not republish or use any information or media of any format, in part or in whole, without my written permission. For permission and more information you can contact Tim Layton on the web at blog.blackandwhitefineart.net or via email at tim@blackandwhitefineart.net

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Photographer Rights

Knowing your rights as a photographer can be very confusing so I thought I would point you to a couple of good resources to review and consider.  If you have other resources that you think would be helpful, then send me an email and I will update the article.

The Gregory Brothers published an informative video on YouTube which I have embedded below for your viewing pleasure.

I have included a link to a downloadable flyer produced by at attorney that I have found helpful.

And, the last link for the article today is via the ACLU, which is always a good source of credible information.

Tim

According to Flickr here are my most interesting photos.

Be sure to leave your comments or suggestions at the bottom of this article. If you like my articles be sure to use the “Like” or “Share” buttons located at the bottom of each article so we can get more feedback from other photographers.

Post your traditional darkroom prints to my new Flickr group dedicated to analog photographs in a digital world.

When viewing my photos on my website or anywhere on the Internet, be sure to check my monitor calibration page to ensure you have the best viewing experience.

To view my portfolio visit my Black and White Fine Art website.

You can follow me on Twitter

Tim Layton
Tim Layton Photography

© Tim Layton – All Rights Reserved – 2012. You may not republish or use any information or media of any format, in part or in whole, without my written permission. For permission and more information you can contact Tim Layton on the web at blog.blackandwhitefineart.net or via email at tim@blackandwhitefineart.net

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Interest Level in a Large Format Field Day?

I get a lot of questions about large format photography and so I wanted to put the question out to the group here and get your feedback.  If I hosted a one day large format field event how many people would want to come?

I am willing to share my knowledge with the group and I am sure I would learn some things as well.

Off the top of my head here are my thoughts and I am open to shape the event based on who is willing to attend.

  • This event is no cost other than the money required for travel and your own personal expenses.
  • I live in St. Louis, but I am willing to travel to just about place that would be a great spot for large format photography.  I am open to just about any location in the country.  I could get excited about anything from finding old ghost towns to the sweeping landscapes of Arches National Park, Yellowstone, etc.
  • I see this event as an opportunity for people of all skill levels to get together and share in the art, science, and love of large format photography.  If you shoot a smaller format and just want to experience large format, then come along and this would be a great opportunity to explore and learn.
  • As far as timeline goes, I am open to anytime between now through this fall.
  • I am open to ideas and suggestions.

Please make your comments at the bottom of this post so that we can keep track of the input and feedback.

Tim

According to Flickr here are my most interesting photos.

Be sure to leave your comments or suggestions at the bottom of this article. If you like my articles be sure to use the “Like” or “Share” buttons located at the bottom of each article so we can get more feedback from other photographers.

Post your traditional darkroom prints to my new Flickr group dedicated to analog photographs in a digital world.

When viewing my photos on my website or anywhere on the Internet, be sure to check my monitor calibration page to ensure you have the best viewing experience.

To view my portfolio visit my Black and White Fine Art website.

You can follow me on Twitter

Tim Layton
Tim Layton Photography

© Tim Layton – All Rights Reserved – 2011. You may not republish or use any information or media of any format, in part or in whole, without my written permission. For permission and more information you can contact Tim Layton on the web at blog.blackandwhitefineart.net or via email at tim@blackandwhitefineart.net

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Posted in Black & White, Landscape, Large Format | Tagged , | Leave a comment

I’m a Fan of The New PocketWizard Plus III Radios

I rarely write about gear, but when I do it is because something significant has been released or I find it very helpful.  In this case today, I am letting you know about the new PocketWizard Plus III units that have been announced and should be shipping by the end of March (2012).  I have included an overview of the manufacturer technical specifications below, but I will briefly tell you why I ordered several of them.

For me, this new model is the best of all worlds for remote flash/strobe control with the added benefit of being able to control just about any modern camera.  I personally use a Sekonic L-758DR light meter that works with all of the PocketWizard radios and that makes testing my lighting very easy and efficient.  For those of us that use lenses with leaf shutters we get the added benefit of flash sync up to 1/500 vs. 1/250.  That can be a big deal for some people.  I will absolutely use that to my advantage when shooting medium format in an action-related scenario.  The biggest reason I went with these new models is because I can actively control my lighting, whether it be my Speedlight SB-910 flashes or my strobes in four different groups (A-D).  For example, you can program your main light to A, fill light to B, back light to C, and hair light to D.  With a simple push of the button you can turn any of these lights on or off.  I do a lot of dramatic type of lighting scenarios and these new radios are going to save me a significant amount of time in addition to me testing different lighting scenarios much faster.  The kicker for me is when I do use a modern camera I can mount one of the units in my hot shoe and have another one in my hand and fire the camera remotely.  I typically use some variation of a four light setup, so I ordered six of them (4 for the lights, one for the camera and one to act as a remote camera trigger).  If you are using the new PocketWizard Plus III units I would like to hear from you about your experience and how you are using them.

I found this video on YouTube that does a good job of explaining the features and benefits of the new PocketWizard Plus III transceiver’s.

 

Technical Specifications

The PocketWizard Plus III Transceiver is a highly versatile and robust radio trigger that is compatible with all prior FCC-version PocketWizards, as well as most flash and camera systems. Featuring 32 channels to choose from, this transceiver is simple to use in even the busiest of situations. Wireless remote control is possible through the use of Quad-Zone Triggering, which allows you to manage up to 4 zones of remote cameras or flashes from one position. Without having to leave camera position, you can activate and deactivate groups of flashes quickly and easily. This transceiver also employ’s PocketWizard’s Auto-Sensing technology, which instantly allows your device to fluctuate from transmitter to receiver. This technology works directly in line with the Auto-Relay function for a completely remote workflow.

The efficiency of this transceiver is further extended by allowing up to 1640′ / 500m transmissions in normal mode, and nearly double with Long Range mode. High speed, continuous shooting is made possible with the High Speed Receive mode, permitting up to 14.5 fps firing at up to 1/250 sec. for focal plane shutter and 1/500 sec. for leaf shutters.

The design of the Plus III incorporates a side-view LCD screen and touch pad interface for switching between modes, zones, and settings. It connects to any camera featuring a hot shoe and is also compatible with a variety of cables for linking to lighting and other remote systems.

32 Channels
Featuring 16 standard and 16 Quad-Zone Triggering channels, finding an open channel to use is simplified and efficient. Switching between channels is accomplished with one-touch operation.
Quad-Zone Triggering
You can program up to 4 working zones for remote control of flashes. This allows you the ability to wirelessly activate and deactivate your flashes, enabling you to remain in camera position without having to manually adjust lighting setups. This is ideal for using multiple lighting setups and managing remote cameras as needed.
Auto-Sensing Transceiver
When set in TxRx mode, the transceiver is able to instantly switch between transmitter and receiver modes for the greatest amount of flexibility. You can also manually override this and choose to have it act as a dedicated transmitter or receiver.
Auto-Relay Mode
When using 3 PocketWizard radios; you can remotely trigger a camera to fire and trigger a flash simultaneously. Utilizing the Auto-Sensing technology, the transceiver mounted to the camera can instantly receive a signal from an auxiliary transceiver, and then instantly convey the transmission to a remote flash. This provides a simplistic and highly efficient remote workflow.
Long Range Capability
When used in ideal conditions, this transceiver is capable of producing and receiving a signal up to 1640′ / 500m away. When conditions are not ideal for a long range transmission, Long Range mode can be used to nearly double the effective range of the signal. There is also Repeater mode, which will repeat the signal several times, increasing the possibility of a successful transmission at long range.
High Speed Capability
When in High Speed Receive mode, this transceiver is capable of triggering cameras or flashes up to 14.5 fps. Normal performance also permits triggering up to 12 fps. It is also capable of sync speeds up to 1/250 sec. for focal plane shutters and 1/500 sec. for leaf shutters.
Simplified User Interface and Design
Clearly displayed on a 1″ / 2.5cm backlit LCD, all of the channels, zones, and modes can be configured using a soft-touch keypad. The design of the transceiver also incorporates a side-view LCD for easier viewing and an internal antenna for a less obtrusive appearance.
Wide Compatibility and Connectability
The transceiver is easily attached to most cameras through the hot shoe, with no extraneous cables required. For attaching to remotes and lights, there is an all-in-one sync port for wide compatibility. Cables are included for attaching from miniphone to miniphone, miniphone to phono, and miniphone to PC sync for cameras without a hot shoe. It is also compatible with all PocketWizard transmitters and receivers (of the same frequency) as well as PocketWizard-enabled lighting and metering equipment. The Plus III is powered by 2 x AA batteries and can be kept up to date with firmware updates utilizing the USB port.

Tim

According to Flickr here are my most interesting photos.

Be sure to leave your comments or suggestions at the bottom of this article. If you like my articles be sure to use the “Like” or “Share” buttons located at the bottom of each article so we can get more feedback from other photographers.

Post your traditional darkroom prints to my new Flickr group dedicated to analog photographs in a digital world.

When viewing my photos on my website or anywhere on the Internet, be sure to check my monitor calibration page to ensure you have the best viewing experience.

To view my portfolio visit my Black and White Fine Art website.

You can follow me on Twitter

Tim Layton
Tim Layton Photography

© Tim Layton – All Rights Reserved – 2011. You may not republish or use any information or media of any format, in part or in whole, without my written permission. For permission and more information you can contact Tim Layton on the web at blog.blackandwhitefineart.net or via email at tim@blackandwhitefineart.net

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Posted in Flash, New Equipment Announcements, Photography | Tagged , , | Leave a comment